BIKING along Le CANAL des DEUX MERS à VĒLO

Or along le Canal de la Garonne and le Canal du Midi

From August 28 till September 19, 2017

INTRODUCTION (with most of the CONCLUSIONS already…)

IMPORTANT: since 2019 le canal du Midi forms an integral part of the CANAL DES DEUX MERS à VĒLO route, starting in the city of ROYAN, passing BORDEAUX, along the CANAL DE GARONNE, TOULOUSE, le CANAL DU MIDI and finishing in SÈTE. (see map underneath)

• Luc Oteman’s “Cycling along the Canal du Midi and the Canal de Garonne” is ideally the first (and only) reference you should consult. This guidebook will also improve your Dutch. Alternatives: the English edition of CICERONE: “Cycling de Canal du Midi” (Only from Toulouse to Sète), or  I. GRIFFITHS : “a Cycling guide to the Canal de Garonne and the Canal du Midi” ;  in French : D. JAMROZIK (www.cartovélo.com) : “le canal des deux mers en vélo” and  CHAMINA : “le canal des deux mers”.

• We accessed the route at SAUVETERRE-de-GUYENNE, cycled all the way to SÈTE and returned on the same route.  On the way back, just before LA RÉOLE, we branched off to LANGON to connect in ROAILLAN with the Piste cyclable Mios-Bazas that runs through the LANDES DE GASCOGNE (see 2^ND map underneath). In Biganos we went westwards to ARCACHON. So, to know our comments re the 2 Canals best to read till day 14, that is until we have cycled along the canals in both directions. (From Arcachon, we crossed towards Cap Ferret, then a bit on the Vélodyssée, direction of Lacanau, and at “dune de l’amour” to the East, direction of Arès-Biganos again. See under)

• We cycle on Koga Worldtraveller, 40 mm tires. We only use rear panniers.  (no tent, but we do carry a “bug Bivy” of Outdoor Research, to have a bug – free and quiet siesta!). With a daily picnic and 2 bottles of water we carry about 10-12 Kg.  Brilliant bikes, btw!

• We were using GPS but relied often on the Canal to tell us whether the GPS was right or not.

• Le Canal de la Garonne is on a sealed road but does not necessarily offer smooth riding … The roots of the trees have pushed the concrete/ asphalt up! Sometimes you yearn for the soft surface of the route along the Canal du Midi…

• The hourly averages once you get on the unpaved paths (some 50 km east of Toulouse) go strongly down. We went there at a cautious 12km/h instead of the 20 km/h before.  Well inflated tires and our steering skills made sure we did not have a puncture during the whole trip.

• What the French colloquially call “la saison” ran towards an end.  Hotels can be closed!  (Tourists need no sleep, especially on Sundays and Mondays!)  Even the “Logis de France” (Ldf) were closed! And even all hotels in the same town can be closed… So better to call in advance before you go the extra mile (kilometer)!

• As many signs “Piste cyclable entre deux mers” there are along Le Canal de la Garonne, as few you will find along Le Canal du Midi…

Day 1: From Sauveterre-de-Guyenne to SERIGNAC-SUR-GARONNE: 87 km, 361 m climbed.

The night before we started in Sauveterre, we stayed at the Hotel de Guyenne, just outside the city walls. This is quite an experience! The restaurant offers a menu for 12.90 € all-in: a buffet of starters, choice of 4 main courses (take the “Frites Maison”, better than any frites in Belgium!), a big plate of cheeses on a help yourself basis and a desserts buffet (you can choose 2) with a quarter liter of wine, on top.  And neat rooms for €40! (Earphones help to sleep as the hotel is at a busy crossroads.)  And friendly staff.

We tried to follow the “Canal des Deux Mers“signs where there were any and took the D670, then D230 and then D129 via St Martin de Lerm to La Réole.  With a little more effort and search we could have avoided the busy D670 (is only a small stretch but dangerous!). (We guess that by now the route is well marked!!)

The D129 runs through rolling vineyards and makes you deserve something extra for lunch! 

After La Réole (stop for croissants, delightful pastries, and breads at the “Place de Richard Coeur de Lion”) starts “le Canal des Deux Mers” (the Canal will be indicated like this till you reach Le Canal de Midi.)

The former tow path along the canal is hardened but you had better keep one eye on it: the roots of the trees can send your front wheel in all directions! Make sure all zippers are well zipped up as well!  My wife also commented that as a woman you better wear a good sports bra to “prevent a boob from popping out”!

Note that “Christ on the Cross” from Rembrandt (painted in 1631) In Le Mas D’Agenais temporarily moved to Bordeaux in the Cathedral of Saint André until the glass showcase in Le Mas will be restored. This is to ensure better conservation of the painting. But it is still worth taking a break in the village, if only for the snappy climb!

At the “Écluse de la Gaule” we noticed a cozy restaurant across the canal: “La Chope et le Pichet “(on the way back we stopped for lunch; it is run by a friendly Belgian couple who serve typical Belgian fare)

We stayed overnight in Serignac at “Le Prince Noir” for €78 excluding breakfast. Logis de France (LdF). Charming rooms but the quality of dinner was below LdF expectation.

Day 2: From Serignac to MOISSAC: 65.5 km

The many kiwi- orchards/plantations before and after Agen were new to us.

The Pont Canal of Agen is impressive! And worth a stop and exploring. “La Poule en Vélo “in St Jean de Turac is a quirky restaurant with alternative owner and ditto dishes as “L’Assiette Végétatout”. Make enough time to explore Moissac and its abbey!

We stayed in “Le Pont Napoleon”, a neat little hotel with Belgian hostess. Good rooms with fine dining!  Le Tartare de Saumon a la Combava was exceptional! Recommended!

Day 3: Moissac to VILLEFRANCHE-de- LAURAGAIS: 111 km.

Just outside Moissac we saw 2 deer crossing the canal swimming (see pictures).   

The Pont Canal after Moissac is also impressive! 

The scenery before Toulouse (so, to the west of the city) is reminiscent of the bygone glory of many industrial cities. This is in stark contrast to the landscape and the surroundings of the canal after Toulouse. Here you drive through the campuses of universities and residential districts of the aviation industry that Charles De Gaulle started there. The quality of the bike path reflects the newly found source of wealth for the city.  The stretch after Toulouse (to Avignon-Lauragais)  is the best 50 km of the whole route! If you ignore the A61 motorway, it could even be one of the most idyllic ones!

Try to make a stop in L’Ecluse de Castanet and/or in L’Estanquet (Gardouch) for a coffee or a delicious meal!

We soon realized that Cassoulet de Canard is advertised as a specialty for the whole South of France!! There is even an Académie de Cassoulet! For that reason, we thought initially that there were no ducks to be seen along the canal.  But this changes after Agen once the canal has gained greater flow through the Tarn and the Canal de Golftech and the water has become much fresher and cleaner.  From then on flocks of ducks sit on the canal bank and don’t even look up when you are passing….  

We didn’t stop in Toulouse for reasons explained higher. Les  Chambres d’hotes La Moustière in Gardouch was fully booked so we headed for Villefranche. We slept in Le Relais du Lauragais (LdF) for €80 breakfast included. Specialty for dinner: Cassoulet Royale which we happily finished after 111 km on the road!  (The Hotel is located 3 km from the canal but hotel and restaurant are recommended! (When they are open…)

Day 4: From Villefranche-de-Lauragais to CARCASSONNE: 71.4 km

10 km before Castelnaudary the road goes unsurfaced but still consists of reasonably good gravel. Towards Carcassonne it becomes bumpy … but in very nice scenery!

We stayed in Carcassonne for a day. It is worthwhile visiting La Cité with a “visite guidée” to book at La Porte Narbonnaise .  Mornings (and late afternoons) before the hordes swarm in, la Cité has its charm!  La Ville, however, is rather depressing.

We slept in Hotel Astoria for €80 without breakfast. Very basic but with a good bike garage!

Day 5: From Carcassonne to LE SOMAIL (St. Nazaire): 62.5 km

This is the most beautiful stretch with a lovely destination! The landscape becomes Mediterranean especially through the majestic umbrella pine trees along the canal. Also, the weather gets hotter! Strangely this makes many passengers on the rental boats feel like they must make a new fashion statement by sitting half naked on deck exposing multi-layered love handles or cleavages starting at the belly button.  

Traffic from rental boats on the canal from Castelnaudary on gets busy! Nice to see that some lock wardens try to make an extra buck by selling essentials like cooled white wine, captains hats and… gloves!  These are needed to protect the soft hands of the sailors (usually the wives…) against the coarse ropes with which to moor the boats in the locks.

During your picnic for lunch, it is worth watching what is going on in the locks! This can be hilarious, especially when there are several boats in front of and behind the locks waiting to go in and the pressure is on to enter or getting out.  Even more so when one of the boats in the queues is a private boat and anxious of being bumped against by these clumsy rentals….!

We stayed in “La Maison des Escaliers”, a beautiful house that unfortunately is no longer serving as a Chambres d’Hotes! There is one alternative left at the time of writing and recommendable: “Le Neptune” and also run by Belgians.  You had better book early as Le Somail is popular!! But “Chez Mariance” (3 rooms), on a boat just outside Le Somail could still have a place for you.

We had dinner in “Le Comptoir Nature”!   Everything on the menu comes from local, smaller producers.  The local olive variety “de Luc “is simply delicious! And don’t forget ice cream with ewes’ milk as dessert!

Day 6: Le Somail to VIAS: 62.5 km

The road doesn’t get better, but the landscape even more!  With some additional attractions like the Tunnel de Malpas.  (On top of the bridge, just to the right is an office de Tourisme. For all the money it has cost the taxpayer, it is not indicated on the cycling path…! It is a very luxurious building, fully airconditioned and stocked with regional specialties, also showing a scale model of the tunnel.  We went in when going and when returning. Both times there was no soul, apart from the 2 uninterested ladies staffing the office…!)

Also, the Ecluses de Fonserannes deserve a stop! Quite impressive, also how they are imbedded in the landscape!

We stayed in Hotel Mucrina in Vias for €81 . (But no reason at all to stay in Vias…!!)

Day 7:  Vias to SÈTE: 48.5 km

In Agde we had quite some difficulty finding the right way. After entering the city and having crossed the bridge over the Herault, go immediately north and keep following it. At a certain point you must go like onto an open parking space in gravel with at the rear a small dirt road going into thick brush and trees, still along the river. This for 1-2 km. Once you have noticed “Écluse de Prades” and “La Guinguette” to the right, you know you are on the right track!

Note that the last part that can bring you to the “Pointe de Onglous “ (the official end of Le Canal du Midi, photo option) has become a private road with a youth holiday colony on it. They allow you in on foot, reluctantly.

The last stretch through Le Bagnas and particularly the last 12 km before Sète is a wonderful ride along the dunes and the sea (But how crazy it must be here in summer…!)

Make sure you time your arrival in Sète with lunchtime! Le Cube, just before the end of the cycle path before entering Sète, has a wonderful terrace and ditto food and is run by some perky ladies!

Sète has character, especially the old port that feels like cosy chaos! The city government should have the courage to make it traffic free! Enjoy the fruits de mer and some of the beautiful beaches!

We stayed in Hotel de la Plage before the centre, along the sea (well, there is a road between hotel and the sea, but that is everywhere the case!). We had dinner in the restaurant of La Conga, next door.  Cosy and family run. Both are advisable!

It was September 7^th in the meantime and fortunately the masses were back home already….!

Day 8: RETURN:  From  Sète to Le Somail: 97 km

On a closer look we should have stayed one day longer to explore the northern villages of l’Etang de Thau (Bouzigues, Mèze and Marseillan) but the call of the ride back along the sea was too strong! (we will do the visit sometime when we do the Via Rhona.)

We cycled back all the way to Le Somail, although we looked for sleeping in Capestang (interesting market place) and Ouveillan (LdF closed!).  The prospect of another night in Le Somail overjoyed us but we found out that “everything” was fully booked (because of a “vide grenier” – literally :“empty the barns” –  the day after in the village) ! We slept with Mariance on the boat for €65 breakfast included. And had a wonderful dinner again in …. Le Comptoir Natur.

On our trip we saw everywhere signs of “Vide Grenier” . Each village in France plans at least one during the summer months! Incredible what and how much the French keep in their barns and cellars! We suspect though that there must be something like a central “Depot National ” which every year at the end of spring trucks out all the stuff to the villages and at the end of summer sends back what is left and new old stuff.…!

Day 9: Daytrip to Narbonne and a bit further …  and back: 68 km  

Via Canal Junction and Canal de la Robine.

Is a nice route! And the crossing of the Aude over the railway bridge of G. Eiffel is quite unique! (not that evident to find though!)

Narbonne is a very pleasant city! Unlike most cities along the Canal, prosperous and vibrant! The highlight of course is Le Canal de la Robine running through the city and its banks forming the commercial heart of it.

We continued a bit further towards Port-la-Nouvelle (the path is very poor, and it rained) but just past Ecluse de Mandirac (café closed…) we turned around. We think though it is worthwhile to explore the coast on a later bike ride!

Slept in La Maison des Escaliers and of course had another wonderful dinner in Le Comptoir Natur!

Day 10: From Le Somail to Carcassonne  : 64 km

A fierce headwind and after some rain, rather slippery paths!

Avoiding tree roots and other obstacles require concentration but increase your steering skills and thus the joy of cycling.

We ventured off the canal for a while in Ventenac and in Homps.

We stayed the night in Les Trois Couronnes at the Aude in Carcassonne . €118 with breakfast (“Low Season” Rate).

Day 11: Carcassonne to Port Lauragais: 83 km

This time we explored a bit and found our way better around Le Seuil de Narouze.  Next time we will certainly do “Les Rigoles”!

Out of necessity as nothing else was open we slept in Fastotel in Port Lauragais (formerly “La Couchée); It is an Ibis-like concrete thing along the highway, but comfortable.

Day 12: Port Lauragais to Montauban (as side tour) : 108 km

Again, we enjoyed very much the landscape and the splendid quality of the canal path to Toulouse! But again, continued immediately through the city even though the railway station quarter gave us a better impression than on the way to!

In Montech we chose the direction of Montauban.  The road is now completely hardened, of good quality and beautiful!

Just before Montauban, at L’Ecluse de Bordebasse, cross the canal and look for a small tunnel under the railroad (is indeed again not signposted……). Do not cycle in the tunnel because the ceiling gets even lower!

Book in advance Hotel du Commerce or Hotel Mercure on Place Roosevelt! There is little else in Montauban except for Hotel Villenouvelle (Ibis Budget).  The Ingrès museum was unfortunately closed for renovation.  Montauban has a nice market with all red brick buildings. But the city as such is not worth a detour. 

Day 13: Montauban to BON ENCONTRE (just before Agen): 82 km

The road after Montech is hardened but of the dangerous kind! You often long for the unpaved path along the Canal du Midi…

We stayed in LdF “La Table d’Antan”. A lovely elderly couple runs the guesthouse.  But “Bon Encontre” is rather a euphemism to describe the village….

Dag 14: From Bon Encontre to Castets en Dorthe (MAZERAC): 96 km

Before La Réole, at the Pont de Tartifume we turned left in the direction of Fontet (Meilhan sur Garonne just before the fork is worth exploring!). We continued to follow the Canal de Garonne to Castets where the canal flows into the Garonne just in front of another bridge designed by G. Eiffel.

We stayed in Mazerac (this hamlet belongs to Castets and requires a snappy climb!) in Gites “L’Espritcanal” for €80, breakfast included.  The owners turned an old barn into 3 beautifully decorated, 50’s style rooms with communal breakfast and cooking space.

Go and see the Church of Mazerac which dates from the 12th Century and cannot be more Romanesque in style. “Où Dieu a planté sa tente “.

We had dinner in “l’Ecluse 52”, nice because it was the only restaurant open, despite the nearby Pizzeria on the boat advertising “open 7/7” …) Good but quite expensive…!

Day 15: Castets en Dorthe to SALLES : 85 km

We cycled through Langon (has a pretty old part) up to Roaillan via the D125E3. The beginning in Langon is not that obvious to find! Look for  “Le péage de Langon “, and head south just before it on the avenue Leo Lagrange = D125E3. (When you see the Lidl you are right!).

The road to Roaillan climbs now and then firmly. On that road you can also make a detour to Chateau D’Yquem to add something else in your drinking bottle than the usual Orangina for some extra energy or to obscure the taste of chlorine in the tap water…!

In Roaillan we needed also some time to find the Bazas – Mios  Piste Cyclable or Voie Verte (or at some point the D806! ).  Look for “La Gare”, indeed where the piste begins.

The road is a surfaced old railroad now marvelously running through the Landes de Gascogne.  Over more than 100 km you cycle through the forest with plenty of deer staring at you.  Make sure you have enough water when it’s hot because amenities are sparse even if you leave the piste.

In Salles we left the piste and stayed in “Domaine de Pont de l’Eyre”, a LdF run by a Dutch couple.  Nice rooms and food but service and management are rather sloppy!  A bit too “laid back”!   

Day 16: Salles to ARCACHON: 48.5 km

The D806 continues until Biganos (after Mios) but at the papermill Smurfit Kappa all signs suddenly disappear.   Then it becomes somewhat difficult to find the road to Arcachon! Go under the Station/Railway and cycle westward… (Do not follow “sentier cotier” or “Itinéraire cotier”). The road was extra difficult to find as the “Office de Tourisme” was closed on Saturday morning. It later turned out that they have an excellent map of the cycling pistes around Archacon-Cap Ferret (as on the map just above).  Look for Le Teich-La Teste = D804, but not indicated like that on the Guide Michelin map! In La Teste, go north for Arcachon, straight ahead for Pyla Sur Mer…  (It rained cats and dogs when we entered Arcachon , so  it was “le bordel ” as they say more colorful French ).

We stayed in the NE of Arcachon, Hotel le Nautic (Boulevard de la Plage 20, 100 m from the beach. €118 breakfast included (city view; Sea view is €158). Ok, Ibis-like.  (Next time we will look for something in Pyla Sur Mer, but could be a lot more expensive…)

Arcachon has become a very charming city revamped with a lot of taste! The whole seaside of Arcachon is brilliantly laid out for walkers and cyclists with the sea figuring as main attraction.  You can go all the way to Dune de Pilat in a very pleasant way.

What a Difference with the Belgian coast! No high-rises, no Luna Parks, no fast food tents in garish colors…..

We dined in “Chez Pierre” as an experience! (an institute like “Chez Leon” in Paris), pricey but very good! Note that the oysters here are better than those of Bouzigues on the Mediterranean Sea!

Day 17: Arcachon via CAP FERRET back to Langon: 125.5 km

We took the ferry to Cap Ferret (keep an eye on your bikes on the ferry as they are not handled with much care).  Explore “La Pointe” = the cape! Actually, the whole peninsula of Cap Ferret deserves thorough exploration, ideally by bike! The cycling is just great here!

We headed then in the direction of Lacanau, at the crossing “Dune de l’amour” to the right, direction of Arès -Lège.

Then follow Biganos (D802).  In Biganos, the signs suddenly stop again… as often happens! “Fortunately” you can see the chimneys of Smurfit Kappa where the Bazas-Mios route passes by – actually ends.

In Roaillan at end of D 806 search for D123 which turns into D125E3 to Langon.

We had this time the wind from behind and cruised through the Landes.

We stopped a few times – Hostens, Villandraut and Roaillan – looking for a place to sleep but found nothing appealing enough to stay the night.

We stayed in Hotel Aliénor (LdF) for €80, breakfast included. The hotel has no restaurant! Ok.

Day 18: Langon to MONBAZILLAC: 112 km

First still along a beautiful stretch of Le Canal de Garonne to La Réole, then direction Sauveterre and Monbazillac on the D14. (We looked ourselves for “quiet” roads to Monbazillac).

The D14 is a beautiful road through the vineyards of Bergerac, but anything but quiet: you have by now realized that the biggest danger on French roads are the delivery vans of courier companies and municipal services and the racing vans of self-employed professionals! The former want to finish work as fast as possible, and the latter are always already late for the appointment they are racing to….

Another point what was striking to us in France is that you see graveyards in the most beautiful and serene places! Too bad that most people only get then a wonderful view while resting….

CONCLUSION

We can be short: Le Canal des deux Mers à Vélo offers a fabulous cycling trip and holiday!!! And really worth starting from Royan and do the whole route to Sète! (see also our Royan to Bordeaux trip report for the first part of the route!). It also got us hooked on multiple day trips on a touring bike!!