NOT on the GR20
From May 19 till June 20, 2023
INTRODUCTION
- For hiking, Corsica has luckily more to offer than the iconic GR20 route. That’s why CICERONE also dedicates a guidebook to it: “short walks in Corsica” compiled by Gillian Price. The following routes are introduced:
- Le Sentier des Douaniers : Cap Corse – 2 stages, 25km and 800m ascent
- Mare e Monti Nord: Calenzana to Cargèse – 10 stages or 122 km and 6565m of ascent
- Mare a Mare Nord: Cargèse to Moriani Plage – 11 stages or 148km with 6540m ascent
- Mare a Mare Sud: Porto Vecchio to Burgu: 5 stages or 76 km and 3420m of climbing
- Mare e Monti Sud: Burgu to Porticcio : 5 stages, 67 km and 2800m up
- These tours, especially from the second one onwards, are rated as “not to be underestimated”: very often through rough terrain with steep differences in altitude, especially when valleys with fast-flowing rivers have to be crossed or when the primeval forests of the south are traversed.
- Our original plan was: MARE a MARE Sud as a warm-up, then MARE e MONTI NORD and after 8 days make a turn in EVISA onto the Mare a Mare Nord to CASTEL VIERGO and walk the 2nd half of the GR20 from VIZZAVONA on. But in Vizzavona we finally decided not to do the second part of the GR20 because the weather and the forecasts for the following days were too bad and we were assigned tents for most of the accommodations (see below).
- The climate of Corsica allows these shorter (and lower) tours to be done “all year round” but in reality, most accommodation is only open from April 1st to the end of October; in most places there is also not an abundance of it and often limited to a gite d’étape with communal sleeping rooms. So, it’s best to book early and if you don’t get an answer to your mails quickly enough, call them! (see attached a list of stays we contacted/stayed)
- On the GR20, for which accommodation is only open from about 1 June to the end of September, it gets even more tense! Reservations will be announced as open on the website of the GR20 GR20: hiking in Corsica | Tips for success (le-gr20.fr) ; BUT although you book early (we already booked at the end of March) you often find that beds in the huts (refuges) controlled by the Parc Naturel Régional Corse (PNRC) are no longer available and you can only get a tent…
We suspect “CORSICA AVENTURE” at the start of the hiking season teaming up with PNRC and book cabins (huts) “en bloc” for groups or individual customers who knock on their door; some day we want to walk the GR20 (or at least part of it) and that’s why we’ll have to go via Corsica Aventure to guarantee us a bed… (a variation on “if you can’t beat them, you have to pay them”…..)
- We had organized our trip in such a way that we needed a minimum of travel and would be able to organize most transfers on public transport:
- Arrival in Porto-Vecchio (via flight to Figari or ferry directly to Porto-Vecchio) and from there start the MARE a MARE SUD
- Arrive in Burgu and from there to Propriano (we hitchhiked)
- Bus to Ajaccio
- Train (highly recommended!) from Ajaccio to Calvi
- Bus or taxi to Calenzana, start from MARE e MONTI, in Evisa to Castel Viergo (and so briefly on the Mare a Mare Nord)
- From Castel Viergo bus to Corte and then train to Vizzavona
- GR20 from Vizzavona to Conca
- Bus to Porto-Vecchio
- A few days at the beach of Santa Giulia
- 2 day Bonifacio
- Return journey from Figari
- But as mentioned above, in Vizzavona we changed our plans and sought out the sun: Point 7 above became:
- From Vizzavona train to Bastia
- To Saint Florent (bus from Bastia)
- Bavella (bus back to Bastia, bus to Porto Vecchio, taxi to Bavella)
- In addition to our walks, we will also write about some other places that are more than worth a visit.
Click on the following to view our stats of the hikes we did:
THE ROUTES
MARE A MARE SUD (MMS)
Day 1: from PORTO-VECCHIO (actually ALZU Di GALLINA (at 140m altitude)) to CARTALAVONU (at 1020m): 8.61 km in 2h14, 925m of ascent
Porto-Vecchiu is very recommendable for a night’s stay: the old (and upper) part of the city is full of conviviality with le Glacier de la Place on the Place de la République as “la terrasse de Dieu”.
It rained all evening, night, and morning, with the forecast that the skies would clear up around 11:00 in the morning. So, we ordered a taxi and started from Alzu Di Gallina (at about 9 km on the route to Cartalavonu). The description in the guide of the route up to that point did not seem that we would miss out much, as being mainly on paved road. …
Immediately after forking onto the path the route becomes scenic with often beautiful views of the bay of Porto-Vecchiu. After quite some ascent, the fragrant maquis (underbrush) makes way for “maritime” and majestic pine trees, the pinus pinaster.
The path crosses the road several times until you arrive in Ospedale at the very inviting terrace of the U Fontanonu restaurant. A little further up and from the road you have – in good weather – again magnificent views of the bay and even Sardinia in the distance.
The road leads you further uphill and then crosses a river for a last stretch to Cartalavonu. However, the rain had made the river more than rippling and too strong to wade through; so we followed the asphalt road (makes a bend first away and then again towards Cartalavonu) through the forest (as such we walked an extra 2 km).
The author of the guidebook describes the refuge as “welcoming and family run”, the picture in the book also suggesting this. But it turned out to be the least pleasant stay on the MMS…. The management seems highly dependent on who of the “family” is responsible for what at which hour.
We were there on a Sunday, where probably most of them were on a day off: the vegetable soup was too watery to carry that name, luckily the “lasagna” came with a lot of grated cheese, the “morning” shift set the tables for breakfast in the middle of the night with unnecessary noise in the dining area right next to the gites (the shift probably just had a night in town and wanted to finish the job before going to bed) , the woman overseeing breakfast barked louder than all the Corsican dogs we encountered en route and the beds in the gites (metal bunk beds) squeaked at the slightest movement….
Half board comes for a “mere” 48€ pp, service correspondingly you would think… The next few days though we didn’t pay more but we received decent food and good service…!!
Day 2: CARTALAVONU (at 1020m altitude) to LEVIE (612m altitude) : 13.4 km, 4:17h moving time, 531m up
The day starts impressive, climbing through a forest of giants! You soon reach the highest point of the day, Foce Alta at 1171m, after which you descend to Carbini. Along the way, on a clear day, you can see the imposing Aiguilles de Bavella.
Carbini offers a welcome picnic spot on benches at the church. Thereafter the noise of a strong flowing Fiumicicoli (at an altitude of 220m) announces a sharp descent and ditto climb after the footbridge. Just before Livia you have a rather babbling brook then inviting you to cool off; for that purpose it’s always good to hang sandals outside your backpack!
Livia is quite a charming village with some amenities: a bakery and small Spar, a pharmacy with “cabinet medical” next to it and a Bar/Tabac with good coffee and croissants.
Livia’s Gite d’étape is just about “the mother of all gites” and everything the refuge of Cartalavonu is not: well organized, neat, solid furniture, to the point, good food and for the same price. But note: doors do not open until 4.30 pm!
Day 3: LIVIA (612m) to SERRA-DI-SCOPAMENE (850m) : 19.41km, 5:26h, 926m up, 669 descent, highest point, JALLICU at 1085m
A morning with pleasant hiking on smooth trails in forest, all the way to Jallicu.
The route first brings you into a “Lord of the Rings” mood (we think as we have never watched any of the movies, but described as such on the Heaphy Trek in New Zealand…): enchanting forest with moss-laden trees along the Neolithic site of Cucuruzzu-Capula. After the river (at 570m) there is a steady climb to Quenza (at 820m).
This is a town with ideal picnic benches at the church, a supermarket, a restaurant, and café with a lot of “couleur locale”!
The departure from Questa can be a bit confusing due to a wrongly placed sign (don’t take Sorbolano but has the same marking!): you do have to cross the road at the church and take the unpaved path NW. What follows is a steep climb but in forest, all the way to the plateau of Jallicu (at 1110m), animated by free-roaming local pigs.
For cooling off continue further through forest and down to a babbling river. Take your time because this stretch is followed by another climb to yet another river and the plateau of Sottanu, coming with a view.
A short descent through forest takes you finally to Scopamène and to the neatly located gite d’étape Le Scopos, run by a warm Portuguese couple; 49€ pp half board.
Day 4: from SERRA-di-SCOPAMENE (at 850m) to SAINTE-LUCIE-de-TALLANO (450m): 10.65km, 3:25h, 472m ascent, 865m descent. Highest point: 859m
The day comes harder than the profile in the book suggests: a sharp descent and ascent before and after the Rizzanese river for which it is not worth stopping! And – contrary to what the book states- the Col de Tavara is not a place to relax or have a picnic…!
After the village of Zoza and the imposing family crypts, better to wait until Altagène where everything is closed again but – as often – the garden around the church offers a good resting place…..
The next church is that of Sant’Andrea, continue taking steps down and around the church to find yourself on the road (the D49). After about 200 m on this road there is a staircase on your right that takes you down to another – smaller – road (the D268) which enters soon Tallano.
Sainte-Lucie-de-Tallano comes with everything you expect from a town, even with a nice square and cafés with terraces! Chez Dume is a hotel, U Fragnonu a nice gîte, 50 € half board with a retired sailor (or so it seems) who cooks delicious vegetarian food!
Day 5: from ST-LUCIE-de-TALLANO (450m) to BURGU (at 190m): 16.5km, 4:47h, 779m ascent and 1055 descent. Highest point: 701m
Last day of the MMS but again, not to take it lightly…! And today also a sharp contrast between unspoilt wild nature and human activities beside it and the mess man makes immediately out of it….
A leisurely descent takes you to Pont de Piombatu, over the bridge, briefly up to and along the D69 to become a disorderly start of a steep climb: the local farmer has started a gite himself – “I can do that too”, he must have thought – and to “lure” people he has actually changed the signs and the markings (fluorescent orange) and let the route run through his farmyard. But the condition of his yard suggests how things are inside the gite… As the first point of a new business plan the surroundings and the yard of the farm should be tackled with a lawn mower and brush cutter; this would also leave fewer “pies” and therefore flies behind than when you let young heifers or cows do the lawn keeping…..
Your mood will not get any better because of the tough climb after the farm, in the sun and on difficult surfaces…! But….the mountain ridge (saddle ridge) that you end up on (you go up to a 700m altitude) makes up for everything: splendid views and miles of lavender, cistus (with white flowers when in bloom) and other herbs will perfume your descent towards Fozzano. A colleague of the former farmer will take over part of the route for his own use, though…
Fozzano comes as a cute village with a perfect bench and sitting area in front of the shop “Casamotta” whose bohemian landlady serves ice creams, coffee, and beers (before the stairs to Maison Madamicella).
The olive groves towards the bottom of the valley urgently require maintenance and the road in between calls for a passage of the man with the brush cutter; also the bridge and the subsequent climb to the road lead into the anticlimax that should not be the end of a beautiful trip: no “celebratory” drink in U Fracintu because closed now; and this comes as even more cynical because the sign for the Auberge is still there…
But there is some traffic on the D557 which allows you to hitchhike to Propriano….where a coffee, an ice cream, a pancake or all three can still bring a feeling of accomplishment!
In Propriano we stayed at Hotel Bellevue, a simple little place in the old part of town. (80€).
In the evening we noticed for the first time how expensive fish on the menu is in the restaurants in Corsica; the freshly caught “local” fish (sea bream, merlu, espadon,…) are sold per 100 grams. Depending on the image of the tent, usually between 7 and 10 € per 100 /g, grilled and served simply with some boiled potatoes and some standard vegetables….. Nothing special and this while you easily need a fish of 700-800 grams for 2 people…. An expensive affair and not worth it, really!
Propriano is not a must-visit; but when you have to be there, no calamity neither: there are worse things than enjoying the setting sun on the terrace of the somewhat mundane Le Lido… and watching the industrious cormorants around it.
In the morning, we took the bus from Propriano to Ajaccio (note: only 2 buses a day!) A nice ride! And Ajaccio worth a visit!
The next day: train from Ajaccio (at 07:40h) to Calvi (a 4h trip but also highly recommended)
For Ajaccio and Calvi: see discussion after conclusions. Also, for Bastia, Saint Florent, Santa Giulia, Bonifacio…
MARE E MONTI (MEM)
DAY 1: From CALENZANA to BONIFATU: 12km, 3:13, 622m ascent, 351m descent, 577m highest point
A leisurely walk as a fist day to start the route. Turn right on the inviting terrace of the GR20 restaurant, where both the GR20 and the MeM start. A first and sharpest climb of the day comes with a view of Calvi and the bay. We leave the GR20 a little further which goes left and stay on an open path in meadows that suggest traces of terrace cultivation, but which is now at the mercy of grazing sheep.
A short walk through the forest quickly leads to a road used for forestry. And this all the way to the bridge over the Figarella that comes as an ideal picnic spot. Note the jagged granite formations around the bridge!
A short climb up and a stretch of paved road will take you to the wonderful Auberge de la Fôret! In addition to gites, the auberge also has a few rooms. We were allowed in immediately despite our early arrival; we repaid this gesture with a Fiadone and coffees on the cozy terrace.
In the afternoon you should certainly do the steady climb along the river, about 2 km up to the swept away bridge. Enjoy the sight of the mighty river with Fôret de Bonifatu as background! And on the way back, close to the auberge, left at the end of parking over “la passerelle”: take a cool dip in the river, highly recommended!
With some regret, you will leave the Auberge the next morning (64€ for the room and 31€ pp half board)!
To remember: take the Auberge as a “base” for a few days of walking and blissful dolce far niente…!
DAY 2: from BONIFATU to FANGU (the gîte l’Alzelli in Tuarelli – at 17km- is closed!): 22.34km, 6h08, 761m up, 1239m down. 1202m highest point.
A beautiful walk through the forests of Bonifatu! And technically a perfect climb over 4 km: steady, on pine needles, in the shade, the perfume of pine resin in the air, cool and in good company…! Comes with a beautiful view on top of the bay of Calvi and a perfect descent afterwards for about 10km.
Unfortunately, Tuarelli comes as an anti-climax: nothing open – there is also nothing, not even a church to hide because we were caught by a strong thunderstorm…
But the Fangu river makes up for it! The walk along is charming and in good weather you will certainly not be able to resist the call to jump in it!
Finally, a bridge over the river (Ponte Vechju) will give you false hope: you would expect the smell of pancakes and coffee and lit up charcoal … but both businesses you see are closed…
Another kilometer and a half on a now tedious stretch of road will lead you to La Ciucciarella with B&B Casaloha beside it (85€ with breakfast. Brilliant!). Both will brighten up your evening!
DAY 3: from FANGU to GALERIA: 6.5km 1h51 292m ascent, 300m descent. Highest point: 174m
Today forms rather a light transition stage but comes in open landscape and eventually in full sun. With beautiful views of Galéria and its bay.
Galéria is quite a nice little town with a few shops, church, cafes, and a bakery run by astute ladies offering salads and delicious ice cream. Hotel Camparellu (75€ for room, allowed in immediately) is a decent family hotel with Sol e Mare as quite a famous restaurant.
DAY 4: from GALERIA to GIROLATA: (measured from the Hotel): 14.5km, 4h27, 873m ascent, 876 descent. Highest point: 753m.
Technically not as easy a day as the one after Bonifatu, with steep pieces of >25% and at parts some scrambling needed during the descent – and the man with the orange paint should pass again, soon!…. But the ridge on the top and the views of Girolata and the bay are fantastic!
But from above it all looks a bit more idyllic than on the ground…! Something like “clean from afar but far from clean”. The beach of Girolata is rather dingy and actually neglected; also E Casarelle (the grass yard around it) and certainly La Cabane du Berger as a whole urgently need to be taken care of.
And the owner of E Casarelle has no qualms about not making you feel comfortable right away… (We later heard from other walkers that his wife had promised them on the phone a place to sleep but that he did not keep it: “avec ma femme, oui, mais la réservation n’etait pas avec moi”) Also: he refuses to cook for more than 24 guests…. Alternatives (?) : Le Cormoran as a gîte, Au Bon Espoir for restaurant, then…..??
But when he is in a good mood, he can cook well! (48€ pp for half board – vegetarian, and very basic room for two).
In late afternoon, we made a very recommended boat trip to the nature reserve of La Scandola, between Galéria and Girolata. Sailing on a boat is always fun! And we spotted the local white-tailed eagle on her nest!
DAY 5: from GIROLATA to CURZU: 11.25km, 3:50, 918m ascent, 658m descent. Highest point: 416m
A lovely walk to le Col de la Croix with the beach of Tuara as highlight. From there, Girolata looks breathtakingly beautiful again…! We wouldn’t have objected either to having to do this walk daily for 20 years like Guy the postman!
Bar Bocca a Croce will still be closed when you pass by…!
Cross the road and then the real work begins: a steep climb up to the ridge at about 600m of altitude, catch your breath and then go at it again after some careful scrambling on a rocky outfit and this for about 30m only… The descent comes mainly in the forest but temper your speed!!
Curzu is an anti-climax! So, unwelcoming that even the church is closed off (with a fence!) and the fountain is spewing green water. The gîte de Curzu was on its last legs… Very considerate though: a blackboard mentioned our name and welcomed us into the room upon arrival!
But no sign of life in the restaurant… Until around 18.00 the iron shutters were raised, and a tired old chap read us the menu for the evening and was also willing to serve us a carafe of wine. Hard to enjoy, however, on a terrace with constantly passing motorbikes… There was also a bunch of Belgian Porsche owners touring in Corsica, stopping at the place. The men, stumbling out of their toys, thought “de prendre un verre” on the terrace, but the old man quickly made them crawl back into their vehicles…
Later he told us that he was looking for a buyer and thought he had found one in his family… Surely the place needs a thorough overhaul of the current amalgam of characterless bric a brac.
But dinner was tasty, so was breakfast! For 70€pp.
DAY 6: from CURZU to SERRIERA: 8.5km, 2h28, 455m up and 631 down; 416m highest point
A nice start with a view of the gulf of Porto, and a steep climb after the river through meadows and cattle. After the next ridge (at an altitude of 350m) a gentle descent to Serriera. Otherwise not much to say about this walk…!
But the gîte – a former olive oil press – is very cozy and nicely redecorated as the gîte d’Alivi! Apart from the gîte, however there is nothing else in Serriera (the shop mentioned in the guide has been closed for 3 years). But the press shop cum little café opens its doors at 17.00 and also serves as the breakfast place for the gîte when they are having a party. The shopkeeper (related to the gîte) seems to be always in pain when having to smile, though….
Nothing for lunch, so we were directed to the beach of Bussaglia (is “only 2 kilometers away…” is actually 2.9…) where there are 2 restaurants with outdoor seating and magnificent views over the sea. So, the walk is worth it! Especially for les Galets where a charming old couple cooks and makes delicious “fondue de figues“, highly recommended! The fish was also affordable for once.
In the evening we were served a nice dinner on the terrace of l’Alivi with visiting wild boars as an attraction.
DAY 7: SERRIERA to OTA: 12km, 4H10; 1011 m ascent, 754 descent. Highest point 942m
The prospect of having to climb 1000 meters today should not deter you! It’s not that bad because the best parts come in beautiful forest and/or with great views! Take your time and it won’t be that hard, this all with the prospect of staying in quite a nice and charming village!
A cattle path will take you across the river. Immediately turn right – this brings you to an altitude of 300 m – and then the real climb begins. Often at 30% and more, but with beautiful vistas as a breather! From the pine forest onwards, you continue frolicking at an altitude of 800 meters, with plenty of breathtaking picnic spots. (but we did not see the fountain…?!
The first parts of the descent are steep but quite doable. Till the “landslide” or rockfall where some scrambling on all fours will be needed and bringing you to an altitude of 400 meters. Thereafter every sigh of relief will come too soon, because the “false flat” will make you curse more often than not and … all the villages you will be approaching are NOT Ota!
Until you almost literally walk into Chez Marie. It looks a bit disorderly at the front, but the terrace in the back and the rooms with balcony are quite appealing! (She also has a room with 4 beds but no window; you just refuse it…!). Marie has been retired for 10 years, now; the daughter has taken over. 52€ pp half board. Wild boar is at the top of the menu and was also the main course of the half board menu!
Ota has other interesting places to look for.
DAY 8: from OTA to EVISA: 7.4 km, 2h06, 619m ascent, 135 m descent, highest point: 886m = Evisa
A short but beautiful stage; take your time to enjoy the Spilonca canyon (gorge) and the 2 classified ancient bridges!
The route takes you through some neglected olive groves to the river and first to the Pont Génois. This bridge loses some of its charm by connecting two roads at either side, but the next bridge, announced by a climbing mule track along the Aïtone stream, makes up for it!
This Pont Zaglia takes you away from the Spilonca. The “shepherd’s path” takes you zigzagging but steadily up to the cemetery of Evisa, forming a small damper on the ambience.
Evisa brings you back on your feet, although the atmosphere in the village was also bit depressed: many shops were closed, for good it seemed. Except for U Caracutu, a restaurant whose fame we were talked about all over the MeM as being the best pizza restaurant in Corsica and surroundings! We could not agree more!
We stayed and dined at Hotel Aïtone, at the top of the village. 60€ for the room. A traditional but warm and friendly guest house!
Note that here we leave the Mare e Monti (which leads to Marignana (at the Post Office to the right, coming from Ota) and continue on the MARE a MARE NORD (MMN) to Castel Viergo!
DAY 9: from EVISA to CASTEL DE VIERGO: 14km, 4h09, 820m ascent and 302m descent.
The day has a charming start on the Mare à Mare Nord as the “Sentier des Chataignes” (path starts right in front of the Post Office), so MMN = the “chestnut trail”!
Up to the “Piscine d’Aïtone”, the path is also called “Sentier Transhumaine” because the chestnut trees are planted, and the path is very well laid out and maintained.
At the “pool” (located lower than where you arrived at) where to continue becomes a bit unclear! Also, because the path is a bit overgrown. You have to cross the higher part of the river Aïtone at the same altitude where you arrived on the “chestnut path” and then immediately cross a suspension bridge, carefully because slippery!
What follows is a steep climb, now mainly through beech forest. Up to a forest path that is paved all the way to the Casterica bridge (we think because no sign with a name on it). Then a couple of kilometers on a dirt road with a steep last climb after having turned left.
This is how you arrive on the Col de Viergo, at an altitude of 1478m. A Col that left us unimpressed because busy with buses and other vehicles, a monstrosity of a statue, flying dirt (of packaging), derelict barracks…
The weather also had something to do with it … And hard to find the right way from there..
We first followed the yellow dots (right across the top and parking lot) but probably missed the right connection (indicated as GR20). So, we ended up by running in the rain along the road to Hotel Castel de Viergo; like most days before: comes noon, it starts to rain!
The hotel is a typical ski-ugly structure… but efficiently run and with self-service restaurant (a “refectory” thing as it was called it in our school days.).
We were only allowed in the room at 15.00, so we watched the arrival and departure of GR20 hikers next to the épicerie (at the campsite next to the hotel). The rain had made the less well-equipped ones wet to the bone, and down to the bottom of the backpack. The hard core continued….
We were allowed to enter our dry room at 15.00 h where we could do our laundry and start drying our clothes… the prospect of arriving wet in a tent a few times the following days did not do our enthusiasm to start the GR20 any good…!
The next day at 09.00 h we took the bus to Corte and from there the train to Vizzavonna arriving at about 1000 m altitude. At the Hotel we were allowed to move into our gite when it immediately started to rain, pouring actually. And this for the whole afternoon.
Except for the rooms and gites, nothing was open in the hotel. The grocery store next door with “café” (Le Refuge) was not overflowing with friendliness and warmth. On top, the owner was drunk and borderline aggressive… So, we just tried to keep warm in our sleeping bags in the room…
The weather forecast for the days after in the mountains didn’t show any improvement (mostly sunny until around noon but then rain…! While the coastal regions remained mostly sunny with pleasant temperatures 🙂 We dropped the prospect of arriving wet in a tent for the next few days and …
…. the next day, we took the train to sunny Bastia!!
AIGUILLES DE BAVELLA to CONCA: 18.5km, 6h12, 634m up, 1680m down. Highest point: 1201m: last (or first…) stage of the GR20
Because we had booked the Auberge de Col de Bavella (the auberge has 3 simple rooms (70 € pp half board. Good!) and in the meantime we had arrived back in Porto Vecchio, we decided to walk the last stage of the GR20. We first booked an extra day in the Auberge to explore the area around the Col. The walk to le Trou de la Bombe is worthwhile (go early before the day trippers arrive!)
The stage to Conca is one of the most beautiful hikes we have ever made! Not a walk in the park but stunning at times! But if you start the GR20 from Conca, a tough stage as the first day!
In Conca, make sure you visit Le Soleil Levant where a late lunch or beer will elevate your sense of accomplishment!
CONCLUSIONS
- Definitely consider Corsica for your next hiking trip!! And this combined with a visit to the main towns of the island! Both will enhance the feeling with which you will leave the island…! We will certainly go back some day! That is probably the best argument for going there. But it’s best to avoid July or August, it seems to us! May seems ideal: nature is in bloom and the towns enjoy a pleasant hustle and bustle!
- Our enthusiasm to hike the GR20 was dampened by the bad weather; people spoke of unusual weather for the time of year: ok in the morning, mostly sunny even, thunderstorms and rain in the early afternoon. But this mainly in the high mountains… Still, we have the feeling that the GR20 is a bit overhyped… But one day we are going to test that feeling by doing a good stretch ourselves. In any case, it’s “big business”: we’ve seen plenty of groups preparing to set out – groups so diverse in age that it raises questions… With Corsica Aventure and PNRC playing in cahoots.
- We would call the MMS as a route “solid conviviality”, the MeM a beautiful yet demanding hike!
- Any recommendations? The Mare à Mare Sud has few alternatives to how we have done it. And it’s also quite recommended like that! The Mare a Monti: also few alternatives to how we walked it. And in terms of stays: Curzu will probably fall out, maybe one day someone will open Fangu again, hopefully one day someone will start something decent in Girolata…
- The character of the Corsicans must have something to do with it: rather stiff and headstrong. History once unleashed a good example of it on the world… But the friendliness and service levels of towns like Saint Florent, Calvi, Porto-Vecchio, , will one day spread out to the mountains!
Some more suggestions:
PORTO-VECCHIO
In short: the part along the waterfront is for the masses, the upper part, around the church is to be enjoyed. Recommended in town: Le Mistral as hotel, Sous La Tonelle and la Table de Nathalie as restaurants; le Glacier de la Place as a terrace !
We also made a pleasant boat trip to les Iles Lavezzi and Bonifacio from Porto Vecchio with Chiocca (also possible from Bonifacio): highlight: view of Bonifacio from the sea!
PROPRIANO
No hoot but a walk along the waterfront is pleasant enough. Good as a stopover between Burgu and Ajaccio.
AJACCIO
Worth the visit! The Rue Cardinal Fesch is the main tourist artery. Hotel Kallisté (90 €) very recommended. Another must: the train to Bastia or to Calvi!
CALVI
An attractive town with a nice harbour. Le Comme Chez Soi as a recommended restaurant. Hotel Cyrnea (90 € room) very ok, but 2 km from old town Calvi (walking on the beach quite pleasant!)
BASTIA
“Bastia grows onto you”, we read in the Lonely Planet. We could indeed live there! Neat, large parks, the sea and harbour as main attractions, convivial nooks and corners…. etc…
Tip: a better choice than le Vieux Port (“for the tourists…”): try out: Le Coude à Coude in the Rue du Dragon (be sure to make a reservation!!); recommended hotel: Hotel Central (110 €)
SAINT FLORENT
A must visit! It is called “The Saint Tropez” of Corsica…. Which is an insult to Saint Florent…! Also make a boat trip to Plage Saleccia, from there walk to Plage de Lotu, eat in Cabane de Lotu just before the plage (where the boat picks you up again!!
In Saint Florent: very recommendable: restaurant La Creque (with a fabulous setting!!), hotels probably: Flor, Bellevue, l’Europe.
BAVELLA
Also a must! We stayed 2 nights at Auberge des Auguilles de Bavella, simple but good!
Hike to le Trou du Bombe (in the early morning or late afternoon!) and if you want a good impression of the GR20: hike to Conca! Again, one of the most beautiful hikes we ever did!
Zonza, on the way to Bavella, also a nice stop!
SANTA GIULIA
Beach is not bad with cute inlets towards the north; but we have the feeling that there are nicer beaches between Porto Vecchio and Santa Giulia! Recommendable restaurant on the beach: Parad’Isula.
We stayed at Résidence Blue Marine (130 € per night), a Pierre-et-Vacances type of holiday village. We were given the studio furthest away from the beach with the most mosquitos on the terrace…. A very decent 25m pool, though…
BONIFACIO
Keep this for last! We consider this THE PEARL OF CORSICA! 2 nights a must! Be sure to walk to the plage de Saint Antoine!
Price/quality: best place to sleep: Hotel des Étrangers (70€ without bf) just before the Marina coming from Porto Vecchio; recommended restaurant: La Cantina Doria. (Check also: Hotel Santa Teresa and Le Roy d’Aragon)
We love to travel 